Running in Mamzar Beach Park

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Abijit Singh

3/20/20247 min read

Back in London, my running routine boiled down to three main elements: clouds, puddles, and the occasional encounter with peculiar-looking dogs (cats are superior). But oh, the summer was a different story altogether. It transformed my mundane route into a lovely journey. Tracing my steps down Osterley Lane, immersing myself in the park's lush greenery, and jogging alongside the river as ducks and swans engaged in their own chaotic battles for supremacy. However, that experience along with the running I had done in Switzerland, Morocco or Croatia could quite compare to the sheer beauty of Mamzar Park, which stands out as the most stunning running route I've ever traversed. The run commences at Al Mamzer Beach, with the Arabian Gulf shimmering on my right and families frolicking in the water, while on my left, benches, villas and public E-Scooters beckon to adventurous souls eager to zip along the cycle lane. Lifeguards maintain a watchful eye from their elevated posts every few hundred meters, exuding an air of quiet vigilance. Along the way, I pass by a handful of charming beachside restaurants, offering picturesque views on one side and, well, me with my sweaty appearance on the other. It was during one of these beach runs that I had a rather enlightening moment as I glanced at my shadow trailing behind me, I couldn't help but notice a slight resemblance to someone with, shall we say, helpless physical abilities. I run weird, let's just say. And then there was the incident with the Pomeranian. Imagine my surprise when I realised I had unintentionally become a canine kidnapper, with the little furball trotting faithfully behind me for a good few minutes before I noticed and had to backtrack to reunite him with his frantic owners. Ah, the joys of running!

After about twenty minutes of brisk jogging, we finally arrive at Mamzar Park. It's quite the grand entrance for a park, with cars neatly queued up for admission, though I typically opt for the footpath route, leaving the vehicles behind. After shelling out a mere five dirhams for entry, I step inside. To my right, the beach seamlessly melds into the park, while to my left unfolds a scene straight out of a utopian dream. Here, amidst the tranquil setting, a melting pot of cultures converge. Families hailing from all corners of the Middle East, Afghanistan, South Asia, Nepal, China, the Philippines... you name it, they're here. They gather around makeshift stoves and grills, expertly cooking up an array of meats and kebabs, all while engaging in spirited games of badminton, cricket, or simply enjoying the swings for some good old-fashioned fun. Meanwhile, newlyweds steal moments of privacy at the park's edge, perched on benches with a view of the sea, while groups of mothers leisurely stroll, exchanging gossip and laughter along the way. In every direction, smiles abound, with towering trees graciously providing shelter from the unforgiving sun. Families relax on vibrantly coloured kaleens (traditional carpets), patiently awaiting for their food while they prepare delectable side dishes. And whenever I catch sight of a mother meticulously dicing tomatoes and cucumbers, I know there's a high probability of a delightful raita in the making. As I pound the shoreline, I can't help but notice the jet skiers zipping back and forth along their designated stretch of water, their manoeuvres reminiscent of scenes straight out of an action movie. Some of these daredevils, typically in their late 20s, seem to defy gravity as they soar over the waves, while fathers with their kids clinging on for dear life exude a mix of excitement and bravery.

Mamzar Park boasts a collection of beaches, each offering its own unique vista of the sea. Though they may share similarities, their distinct perspectives lend a wholly different atmosphere. As I approach the first beach, I find myself navigating a series of imposing rocks, making an attempt at rock climbing (pun intended). From this vantage point, I'm treated to the sight of the sun gracefully inching closer to the horizon, with just enough time to dash to the next beach and catch it dipping below the skyline. Here's a fun fact: as I gaze into the distance, toward the vast expanse of the sea, I'm actually peering in the direction of Iran and Qatar. It's a surreal realisation, adding an extra layer of intrigue to my seaside run. With a casual wave to the cats that inhabit the park, I set off toward the next beach, my feet carrying me past a basketball court where siblings engage in the age-old tradition of arguing. Nearby, a swimming pool—yes, you read that right, a swimming pool nestled within centre of the park, while a skatepark nearby echoes with the sounds of wheels on concrete. I recall a group of kids banding together to assist each other in scaling the fence of the skatepark, their hands serving as footholds in their quest for skateboarding glory. In my language we call kids being badly behaved - shataan, and thats what the voice in my head echoed as I smiled at their courage. As I continue my jog, I notice small shops dotted haphazardly around with an assortment of snacks and beverages. Meanwhile, tucked away in a quiet corner, groups of Afghans gather to perform their Maghrib prayers as the sun paints the sky in a breathtaking display of colours. The Afghans stand out amidst the Dubai crowd, everywhere you go in their vibrant Shalwar Kameez garments adding a splash of culture to the scenery. Truly, Mamzar Park is a melting pot of cultures.

Continuing my journey along the beach, I finally arrive at my cherished spot. Here, the air is alive with the sound of volleyballs being batted clumsily back and forth, accompanied by the laughter of players tumbling over in their efforts. Nearby, kids attempt to conquer the tyre seat zipline, often ending in comical failure as they shout for their parents to give them that extra push. With Asian parents, you're more likely to be laughed at first. Build character. Amidst this lively scene, the birds add their cheerful chirps, seemingly as eager as I am to witness the impending sunset. The beach itself boasts a gentle curve, reminiscent of those scenes from movies. In the centre, two goal posts stand tall, serving as a focal point for a group of spirited Arabic men engaged in a barefoot game of football, their voices raised in passionate debate over penalty claims or painful humorous tackles. Adjacent to the action, a heart-shaped seat awaits, perfect for couples and friends alike to capture those Instagram-worthy moments or for a husband reluctantly enlisted to play photographer for his wife's umpteenth photo of the evening.

Navigating the sandy expanse of the beach, I take care to any sand to infiltrate my shoes before reaching a line of formidable giant rocks. I 'climb' up with each step, I negotiate the uneven terrain, my foot looking for balance on the next available stone. Eventually, one on a relatively level surface, I sit down gazing in wonder at the spectacular panorama before me. The sky is ablaze with hues of red and orange, casting a mesmerising glow over the landscape. As the waves grow more assertive, crashing onto the shore and the wind picks up. Surrounded by fellow sunset enthusiasts, tourists and locals alike, I can't resist capturing the moment through countless photos and videos, knowing that my mum will appreciate them just as much as I do. I notice groups of Chinese women in their 50s and 60s, occasionally attempting to navigate the rocky terrain. I tend to extend a helping hand, assisting them in their quest for the perfect picture. In their cute elderly accents they tell me "Thank you".

One of the most unforgettable moments I've had while perched on those rocks happened when I decided it was time to bid farewell to the mesmerising sunset. As I prepared to leave, a stranger approached, his phone at the ready. "I couldn't resist snapping a picture of you," he confessed with a smile. "You were perfectly silhouetted against the setting sun." Thrilled by the unexpected compliment, I provided my email, and true to his word, he sent me the resulting photo, which quickly became one of my cherished favourites. As I meander my way back through the park, I often stumble upon scenes that further enrich my experience. Couples and kids whizzing past on mini-seated cycles, engaged in playful races, elderly Chinese men flying kites while cats lazily bask in the warmth of the setting sun, or awaiting for their share of the food as if they were part of the family. As much as you think 'I've explored the park, I think there is no more to explore', Mamzar Park never fails to surprise. Suddenly, I find myself in a huge garden, palm trees standing tall in perfect symmetry on either side while a vibrant flower-shaped concrete area adds a splash of colour to the landscape. This particular area of the park is overwhelming. creating a charm to this park, always ready to unveil its hidden gems.

As I circle back towards the exit, the clock ticking closer to seven or eight in the evening, I can't help but notice the sight of families still queuing up in their cars, eagerly awaiting their turn to enter the park. It's a scene that repeats itself day after day, regardless of the hour. You see, Mamzar Park's gates may close at 10pm, but for these families, the time of day does not matter. What matters most is the opportunity to carve out precious moments with their loved ones, and enjoy the park's tranquil ambiance, creating lasting memories every week. It's a testament to the park's enduring appeal and the timeless joy it brings to those who visit, no matter the hour.

During Ramadan, I initially expected Mamzar Park to be quieter, and indeed it was. However, as the day waned and the call to prayer echoed through the air, signalling the opening of their fast, the atmosphere transformed. Around sunset, families began to gather, whether within the park itself or along the beach just before the entrance, to partake in Iftar. On the beach, a colourful mosaic of Afghan, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi families would set up their barbecues and settle onto their kaleens, forming long rows as they relished each other's company. Amidst the chatter and laughter, parents would coax their eager children to sit and eat, though their youngsters' enthusiasm for roller skating down the beach often took priority. It was a heartwarming sight, witnessing the bonds of family and culture intertwine in the evening.

Heading back toward home, the sense of tranquility transcends the fading daylight. Though the sun may have dipped below the horizon, the warmth of the smiles on everyone's faces remains ever-present. For these families, the true richness lies not in material possessions but in the bonds they share and the joy of spending quality time together. It's a testament to the essence of Dubai—a city where wealth is measured not just in financial prosperity, but in the richness of relationships and connections. While outsiders may perceive Dubai as a land filled with gleaming skyscrapers and luxury cars, those who truly immerse themselves in its culture understand that its true beauty lies in the simple pleasures of family life. The government plays a pivotal role in preserving this ethos, maintaining the city's pristine cleanliness and safety. Something they deserve more credit for. In essence, running along the shores of Mamzar Park offers not just a physical workout, but a glimpse into the heart and soul of Dubai—a city where happiness thrives in the company of loved ones, and where the true measure of wealth lies in the richness of human connection.