From Cappuccino Views to Chaos in the Forest

Shimla, India

Abijit Singh

3/30/20265 min read

On our last and final day in Shimla, we woke up at around 10am. I immediately went online to search for a place for breakfast, and the first one I came across had exactly the kind of vibe I was looking for. We planned to get ready and head out by 12, making that our first stop of the day. Only after that did we think about asking the hotel staff for suggestions on where to go next.

This café was honestly out of this world. It had a slightly unexpected theme—hockey—but the moment we stepped inside, none of that even mattered. It opened up into this huge white balcony, with neatly placed tables facing straight out towards the mountains. It was one of those views you don’t get tired of. No matter where you are in Shimla, every angle, every time of day, every location somehow offers a completely new version of the mountains. The sun lit up the entire space perfectly, bouncing off the white railings and tables, and all I could do was sit there and stare into the distance, taking it all in. We ordered food, and I’ll be honest—it was much better than I expected. Clean, tasty, and beautifully presented. I sat there sipping my cappuccino, just watching the hills roll endlessly into the distance… for over an hour. My parents’ and wife’s food had arrived after about thirty minutes, but for the first time since I was a kid, I decided I wanted something sweet for breakfast. So I ordered strawberry waffles with ice cream to go with my coffee.
Over. One. Hour.
By the time it arrived, I wasn’t even hungry anymore, but honestly, it didn’t matter. Being there, in that setting, made the wait completely worth it. Before leaving, we asked the waiter where we should head next, and he suggested the 'Shimla Water Catchment Wildlife Sanctuary'.

We arrived there with an hour to go before it closed at 3pm, and we picked the “buggy tour”. Our guide drove us about 2km out of the possible 7km, whilst beautifully explaining to us what this place was and its link to the British. The Shimla Water Catchment Wildlife Sanctuary was actually developed during British rule to protect the city’s water supply, and over time it became a protected forest area. It’s filled with towering deodar, oak and pine trees, some standing for decades, untouched. Cutting trees here is strictly prohibited, and the area is heavily preserved to maintain both the ecosystem and Shimla’s water sources. Wildlife still roams freely; leopards, barking deer, Himalayan birds, so yes, the thought of one casually watching us wasn’t entirely impossible. It was a peaceful buggy stroll with the occasional scare that a leopard might see us. Other people that chose the walking path or bicycle we’d occasionally see them on our journey. Our first stop was a little balcony-like fence, a place specially made for photos. And wow… what a view. Layers of mountains stretched endlessly into the distance, fading into soft blue tones the further they went. Tall, thin trees stood in the foreground like silhouettes, while a faint mist hovered over parts of the valley, even a small trail of smoke rising quietly in the distance. The sky above was painted with streaks of white clouds, almost brushed across the blue, making the whole scene feel calm, untouched, and unreal. Standing there, looking out, it didn’t even feel like a viewpoint… it felt like you’d paused the world for a moment.

We hopped back up and drove a little bit more, finding ourselves below a treehouse. Pretty cool. The stairs were, again, not exactly stairs, and at an incredibly awkward angle with a very unsteady rail. Long tree branches were scattered everywhere, and we carefully made our way up. It was an actual treehouse. Sick. Built entirely from wood, tucked into the forest like something out of a film, it had a rustic charm to it. Log beams, open panels, and a small balcony that framed the mountains perfectly. From inside, you could look out through the wooden structure and see endless hills layered in deep green, with sunlight cutting through the trees and lighting up the valley below. It felt peaceful, hidden, almost like a secret spot above the world. I made my way down first because I wasn’t entirely comfortable up there, one good look at the view was enough for me. My mum, on the other hand, decided to sit on one of the branches right on the edge and get her picture taken. Nope. Not risking that. She’s from Afghanistan, she grew up doing this. I’m from West London… hayfever scares me.

Next stop was a stream. This is exactly what I mean when I say this place was magnificent. Turns out this sanctuary also holds one of the main sources of Shimla’s water. Natural spring water flows straight out of the mountains, gets collected through pipes, then passes through filtration systems before being supplied to the city. There are multiple such water sources spread across the sanctuary, all protected and maintained carefully, which is why the area is so strictly preserved. We had to walk uphill a few metres to actually see the stream. My mum sat down right on the rock it was flowing from and casually drank some of it. Practice from her childhood, I guess. The tour guide said it was safe to drink a little, and my mum probably had about half a cup before saying it was refreshing… “just like Jalalabad,” she said. Me? I avoid Delhi street food because it messes with my stomach. There was no way I was risking mountain water. Though, I can’t lie… the view around it was incredible once again.

On the way back, my wife shrieked and said she’d seen a leopard right at the bottom near one of the tree bases. From that point on, it was only right for me and my dad to scare my mum and wife the rest of the way. It got to the point where my dad started randomly roaring, and they’d both shriek instantly. I’d occasionally grab my wife’s arms because she was so focused on the trees and “potential threats.” Her reflexes? Let’s just say… not exactly lightning fast. More like a sloth on a relaxed day. They both had the same reaction every single time:
“Just wait till we reach the car.”

We made our way back home, but just before that we stopped at the gift shop to grab a couple of drinks. My mum had stepped outside while my dad, my wife and I were still inside. Out of nowhere, a monkey approached her from behind, fully locked in on the packet of crisps in her hand. Its arm was stretched out, ready to make a move. I shouted “Mum!” while frantically waving at her to look up, pointing at the monkey at the exact same time as my wife. We were panicking… but my mum? Moving in slow motion. The moment she finally clocked it, she rushed back inside and the monkey ran off. Crisis avoided. Just about. On the drive we also encountered a difficult hill. We’d taken a wrong turn and had to reverse in a very narrow space. Once my dad managed that, he then had to get the car up a steep incline - easily the toughest one we’d faced. The entire car went silent. We were all holding our breath, staring straight ahead so we didn’t distract him. Meanwhile, two local cars behind us started honking. Pressure = maximum.
And right in that moment of peak tension, my mum goes,
“Should me and Abi get out and push the car?”................Bruh.

I couldn’t help it… I burst out laughing.